Share your experience!
I thought I'd create a generic thread to cover off the issues being encountered on the 2015 Bravia Android TVs. I've listed my issues below with fixes / workarounds and responses from support. All comments and solutions welcome!
1) Hot Swap HDMI doesn't work - manifested by no input on HDMI channels 2, 3 and 4 on the KD-49X8305C. Workaround - reset the TV, either by holding down the remote power button for 5 seconds or by switching the TV off at the wall and then back on again. Further details on this thread: https://community.sony.co.uk/t5/televisions/kd-49x8305c-hdmi-2-3-4-inputs-not-working/td-p/1944435
2) HDD Recording doesn't work - error message states a system update is required but none is available when checking. Hopefully this will be fixed soon by a firmware update.
3) Netflix App doesn't work - this seems like the app has been deliberately disabled. So far a support case has only recommended that a factory reset be performed (took two days to get to that cracking piece of advice.....), with no improvement as a result. A temporary (albeit for advanced users only) workaround is provided by MikeLothian on this thread - https://community.sony.co.uk/t5/televisions/netflix-support-for-kd55x8509c-android-tv/td-p/1945360
4) Sound lag and performance issues after the TV (KD-49X8305C) has been on standby for a while - manifested for me as stuttering and sound / picture sync issues in all apps (youtube, amazon instant video etc) and HDMI sources (PS4, seperate YouView box etc). Hopefully this will be fixed in a firmware update, at the moment workarounds involve either changing channels to get the sync to work or in my case having to turn the TV off and then on again at the socket.
As stated previously, all comments welcome. Personally I'm willing to give Sony a couple of weeks to fix this, but if it's not done soon I'll be sending my new TV back for a refund as it's not really fit for purpose.
To Cozzykim - I initially had a similar response from JL Telephone Support and reluctantly accepted their 'repair'option, but when I later explained all the problems 'hic' to the shop this action was immediately cancelled and a new alternative make of TV was offered. I now have Samsung UE48JU6500 (delivered yesterday) and am in process of checking it out. I'm convinced the Bravia display was better, but the system appears far more stable, although there are a few issues. Namely Netflix requires 'Silverlight' that is not supported by Samsung OS, so can't view film content. The Youtube app wont allow, 'Sign in' to my Account, other than searched thro' Web Browser. So Youtube App access is onlly ever 'Guest access' with no memory - and I still experience HDMI conflicts with Sound bar and Humax connected simultaneously. So I would be interested to hear if you have had same experience with JU7000. The message essentially is, to all Bravia sufferers, 'the isn't always greener elsewhere'
@alanxce I have Amazon Prime, so I checked this out for you. I tried Contagion. This video is only available in SD on the Amazon site. Also I noted that the whole movie has a Yellow/orange colour cast in production. I compared it with Transparent season 2 Amazon are promoting, this Tv programme has very natural colours and better definition. I feel you had an unlucky choice of material.
To confirn this.. I viewed the same media via an Amazon Fire TV Stick and got the same results.
Do you also know the Picture settings of the TV are independent for each source including app video. You can tweak the colours of the Amazon App using the Action Menu button, independently of your normal viewing settings. It is a bit hit and miss as the video mutes to black when you go into picture settings, but I copied the same setting from my normal viewing source into here to get better results, as the default was too contrasty and over saturated.
I say all this because Sony have let us all down badly by not providing an adequate user guide for the sets and we all have to teach ourselves how to operate it.
Hope this Helps
@alanxce Sorry missed your update... Glad your sorted
Getting upset with this Android TV sharpness thing.
Tried changing interface resolution with Android SDK to 3840x2160 and DPI 640 (instead of 1920x1080 and DPI 320) but the sharpness is still not there. Also tried 1080x1920 like the FireTV has with no luck, it changes resolution but no sharpness.
This sharpness thing affects Android UI and Apps, so I think this might have to do with TV settings and not Android.
Here are some screenshots of FireTV Netflix through HDMI vs Android TV Netflix built-in. Both running Android 5+.
FireTV on the left, Android TV on the right.
@frogger38 Thanks for your replies anyway, all helps to confirm I am not actually going out of my mind
@sonybox wrote:This sharpness thing affects Android UI and Apps, so I think this might have to do with TV settings and not Android.
The set is designed (optimised) to show moving video at particular frame rates; it's not really a graphics/computer monitor - which would be designed in a quite different way...
Additionally; there is actually no reason to suppose that the UI graphics themselves will be of 'full UHD quality'. DPI settings are irrelevant since you're dealing with an absolute-bitmap. - i.e. you're not resizing vector graphics.
It's not uncommon (for instance) for captions from broadcasters who should know better (STV are particularly guilty!) to be of such absolutely dire quality that they would have looked 'bad' at SD let alone HD or UHD!
~ I am HIGHLY critical of these sets in terms of some very basic flaws that affect their primary use as broadcast receivers... But, in my professional opinion there is little or nothing wrong with the display quality relevant to the class of equipment/price. - They would not be out-of-place as studio floor monitors.
Incidentally... As hard as it is to discern frm your photographs, the apparent 'sharpness' of your other device looks to be as the result of some degree of artificial 'edge ringing'; back in the old days of VHS and CRT sets, this was a common 'trick' performed by certain so-called 'video enhancers' - it's not really any sharper; it's simply taking advantage of a facet of human physiology to provide that illusion...
Unfortunately it does that by 'trading off' tonal subtlety - fine on a simple static graphic; but not how a cinematographer would intend their pictures to look.
Hiya,
Thanks for the advice.
I tried the AV sync setting on the sound bar and it made the ps4 sync even worse.
I didn't mean I use both optical and hdmi, just that I had tried both with the same problem - that was poorly worded!
I have the ps4 into the tv on hdmi 1 and the the tv to the sound bar on hdmi 4 arc. Are there any other set ups I should try?
I'll give that PCM thing a go but will that mean when I set up the sound bar to prioritise voice it won't know which is the signal for the central speaker as well? I hate when playing blu ray on stereo all the action is so loud and voices so quiet!
Nick
Something a bit more positive to report, please read on...
I've experienced many of the faults described in this post on my KD-49X8309C (purchased in October), paticularly around slow response, freezing, failure of iPlayer etc. in mid flight and having to reboot / switch off the TV dozens of times to recover. I have been reading the forum with interest and hanging on in there waiting and hoping for Sony to address the issues. I was completely dismayed to find that in the last few days the basic Youview functions of scroll back and catch-up TV had stopped working altogether. No "watch now" on the current day's listings and "not available" on all listings for previous days. I ran the latest firmware, no change to the Youview issue. I was preparing my letter to Currys when I decided to have one more go.
FACTORY RESET...
I started a full factory reset after the firmware update and completed all the Google, WiFi input details etc. afresh - then to my amazement the Youview issue is fixed and the TV is now responding properly to the remote commands. It seems that installing the firmware update followed by a full factory reset has made some very positive differences to my set, which may give some hope to those considering a return. I can only hope Sony continues to show that although they don't give very helpful support to individuals they are listening to those forum users who have a reporting line in with issues.
TO CARRY OUT FULL FACTORY RESET:
Press Home on the remote
Scroll down and select settings
On the TV line scroll across and select Storage and Reset
Select Factory Data Reset
Confirm
The TV goes blank with the LED still on for quite a while, let it run because it eventually switches off and then on again. You will get the dancing coloured dots for a few minutes folowed by the startup screen and chamber music. You will need to re-enter all the basic details such as Language, Google account, Broadband details, new pin code etc. etc.
I hope this may help some who are pulling their hair out right now.
sticklebricks wrote:Hiya,
Thanks for the advice.
I tried the AV sync setting on the sound bar and it made the ps4 sync even worse.
I didn't mean I use both optical and hdmi, just that I had tried both with the same problem - that was poorly worded!
I have the ps4 into the tv on hdmi 1 and the the tv to the sound bar on hdmi 4 arc. Are there any other set ups I should try?
I'll give that PCM thing a go but will that mean when I set up the sound bar to prioritise voice it won't know which is the signal for the central speaker as well? I hate when playing blu ray on stereo all the action is so loud and voices so quiet!
Nick
You'll probably find that the A/V sync on a soundbar or amp is only of help where the sound is leading the picture. -
The problem with these sets is that they're causing the sounf to lag the picture... Adding more delay will then only make it worse!
- Believe it or not it's been possible to decode surround sound since the days of VHS cassettes! These only ever had two audio tracks. The (mono) 'centre' channel is derived by extracting what is at exactly the same level and phase on both stereo channels - with a two-speaker set-up this would appear in the centre of the stereo image. Electronically extracting it is quite easy!
'Rear channel' information was extracted by pulling out the information that was out-of-phase between the two front channels; an old trick in the 60s/70s was to wire an extra pair of speakers across the '+' terminals of your amp! - This had a similar effect as they'd respond to the 'antiphase' information that was otherwise being cancelled out - 'Hafler mode' it was a called... Many live recordings (in particular) has quite good 'accidental' surround tracks...
Dolby basically refined the technique!
- I can't imagine anyone ( except possibly Alan Sugar) would build a sounbar that can't extract and boost the centre channel...
What you might also find useful in going thought the set's menu where there is an option to compress the dynamic range of Dolby inputs; quite useful as it's really far too wide if yo happen to have neighbours!
Not sure if your particular soundbar has it's own HDMI switching? - If so you might have better luck plugging your PS4 into that and just using the set as a display. - The issue does seem to be latency introduced by the set when it's trying to 'pass through' audio from HDMI.
Best,
Matt.